Quick version: the format matters less than you'd think, and the marketing matters even less. Oils feel lovely and lock moisture in but rarely carry proven actives. Creams and gels are the best vehicles for ingredients that actually do something, like centella asiatica — however they are not adequate by themselves. Balms are rich occlusives, great for itchy, dry skin at night. None of them — oil, cream or balm — reaches the dermis where stretch marks form. Topicals can improve skin elasticity, but clinical research does not support their efficacy as a sole method for reliably reducing the emergence of stretch marks. So pick your textures for the job, and pair them with support for the layer they can't touch — our Day Gel works by helping the Derma Dot™ technology adhere to the skin, as part of a system.
Every pregnancy group chat has the oil-versus-cream debate on permanent rotation, usually with one famous oil at the centre of it. Here's the calm version.
What each format actually is
Oils are pure lipids. They sit on the skin's surface and slow water loss — a sealant more than a hydrator. That famous tingle of "it's working"? It's just occlusion. Most oils carry few or no actives, because most of the good stuff is water-based — and water and oil famously don't mix.
Creams and gels are emulsions: water plus lipids. The water phase carries humectants like hyaluronic acid and actives like centella into the upper skin; the lipid phase seals them in. If you want ingredients with evidence behind them, this is the format that delivers them.
Balms are dense, water-free occlusives — think of them as a heavier, waxier oil. Brilliant for locking in moisture overnight and calming that maddening third-trimester itch, less useful as a vehicle for actives.
So which is "best" for stretch marks?
For delivering proven ingredients: a gel or cream, no contest. It's why our Day Gel is a gel — light enough for daily wear under clothes and support wear, with centella asiatica and hyaluronic acid where they can actually be absorbed.
For overnight comfort and itch: a rich cream or balm. That's the Night Cream's job — it has a denser texture that gets on with things while you get whatever sleep you're currently allowed.
For the ritual: honestly, whichever you'll use every day. Consistency beats format. If you adore an oil massage in the evening, keep it — just don't rely on it as your prevention strategy.
The smart routine layers them: lighter gel with actives by day, richer cream by night. That's the thinking behind The Duo.
The uncomfortable truth about all three
Whatever the texture, topicals share a ceiling: they condition the epidermis, the surface layer. Stretch marks form underneath, in the dermis, when rapid stretching pulls its fibres apart. Research on the classic oils — including the famous ones — has consistently failed to show they prevent stretch marks. Not because they're bad products, but because they're working on the wrong layer.
That's the gap Derma Dot™ technology exists to fill: mechanical support that spreads the tension of a growing bump across hundreds of small pads, so the deep layer isn't pulled apart in one spot. Texture debates are fun; the layer question is the one that decides results.
A sensible way to choose
Morning: a light gel with proven actives, so it absorbs before you dress and works under your band. Night: a richer cream or balm for hydration and itch. All day: mechanical support on the layer creams can't reach. That's the full stack — and every part of it earns its place.
So, oils versus creams versus balms? Creams and gels win on actives, balms win on overnight comfort, oils win on ritual. But the real "which works" answer isn't a texture at all — it's covering both layers of your skin, not just the one you can touch.
General information, not medical advice. Check anything that concerns you with your GP or midwife. See the NHS guide to stretch marks.
FAQ
Is oil or cream better for stretch marks?
Creams and gels are better vehicles for proven actives like centella asiatica and hyaluronic acid. Oils mainly seal moisture in and rarely carry effective actives. Many routines use a gel by day and a richer cream at night.
Does Bio-Oil prevent stretch marks?
Studies haven't shown that oils, including the famous ones, prevent stretch marks. Oils can soften and comfort skin, but they work on the surface, not the dermis where marks form.
What's the best routine for pregnancy skin?
A light gel with actives in the morning, a richer cream at night, and daily mechanical support for the deep layer of skin — ideally starting around week 12.
Are balms worth it for pregnancy skin?
For overnight hydration and itchy, tight skin, yes — balms are excellent occlusives. Just don't rely on any topical alone for prevention.
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